Santorini

“Slow down, Trevor, don’t be Stupid, Slow Down!“

It all started with the fastest taxiing plane I’ve ever been in, the crazy Greek pilot flew along the tarmac like he was in a racing a car. As we stood outside the Santorini terminal at 10 pm, wondering how we could get to our hotel, a minibus came flying down the hill, jumped across an island, around the taxi rank and screeched to a halt in front of the terminal. A Greek in a desperate hurry jumped out calling to us, “Fira?”, we said “Yes.” He ran across the road, grabbed Del’s suitcase and said “Ella.” While I was trying to catch up with him to discuss price, he swung Del’s (very heavy) bag up into the back of his bus by the extended handle. It broke off! The bus price was E15 for two.

When he dropped us near our hotel, I explained that I wasn’t paying because he broke our bag, he said, ”OK, E10,” I said, “I want compensation for the bag you’ve destroyed.” He shouted “Bloody Australians!” as he stormed off as quickly as he had appeared. For the rest of our stay, as we wandered the narrow and busy streets of Fira, we kept a sharp eye for the angry misantipodean melaka in a mad hurry.

Next morning we walked up to the caldera side cliff and were gob-smacked by the beauty. Turning right we followed the cliff top lane as it wound it’s way around small hotels, restaurants and private homes. We couldn’t stop taking photographs, around every corner there was another postcard scene. White washed buildings, blue doors and windows, twisting, intersecting and descending stairways, blue domed churches and brightly coloured bougainvillea everywhere. Donkeys, with their human cargo, traversing the 300 metre high switchback path from the port below. The clear, bright sun light was an ideal inspiration for taking photographs, over 200 on the first day. Near the northern edge of Fira, we rested from the heat at a cliff-side café with 3 tables, and watched the sunset.

Fira is a buzzing little village, teaming with tourists, scooters and cars, and open to all hours of the night. It is packed with expensive jewellery and souvenir shops, restaurants, bars and cafes galore. It is very clean, immaculately detailed, and well maintained. A marked contrast to Athens as we were soon to discover.

Our hotel was hidden down a quiet residential lane, away from the caldera view but close to the ‘plateia.’ Anything, hotel or restaurant, on the cliff side was extremely expensive ($1200 per night and $8 for a beer) so we enjoyed the views and sunsets from the cliff-side laneways and then ate great souvlakis with real pita bread and thick tzatziki for only E2.50, in the plateia.

Quad bikes are the way to move. Only E15 for a day and 80cc. Poor thing, it struggled desperately to get us up some of those long steep hills. Del had to get off and walk on one. Santorini roads are very narrow and steep at times, with switchbacks and a 300 metre rapid descent into the sea starting half a metre beyond the edge of the road. Add to that danger, cars, motorbikes and buses whizzing past with only inches separation. Del kept shouting to slow down, as we jollied along at 30k/hr. We drove to Oia (pronounced “ear”), similar to Fira with cliff side lanes, shops and cafes but not as polished, and then down to Kamari Beach for a swim and lunch. Black pebbles were a bit hard on the feet, but the lunch was delicious. We shared a plate of small fried fish, a Greek salad, yogurt and honey, and a beer, overlooking the beach. Just a breath of a breeze every now and then, warm clear flat water, and lots of umbrellas with beach chairs for hire at E7. The waiter bought us a pink Ouzo cocktail after we paid the bill. The sun was setting as we returned to Fira, so we stopped at a remote cliff top restaurant, overlooking the caldera, for a beer. E16 for 2, the most expensive beer I’ve ever bought, but worth every Euro for the view. Bright orange across the western sky, and shimmering bronze on the sea way below, as yachts and fishing boats passed through the sun’s reflection. What a day! At every bend there was beautiful scenery and, “Slow down, slow down!“ Del was glad we didn’t get a motorbike like I had wanted!

Einai orea.

A Slice of Heaven on Earth.