Las Vegas

We hadn’t walked more than 20 metres off the plane when we were hit by a room full of gaming machines - that‘s Las Vegas. The cultural shock continued when we had to navigate our way across a huge floor of gaming machines at the Stratosphere Hotel to find the check-in desk. Whilst checking in we met up with Wendy, (Del’s sister), with whom we will be travelling to New York. In Caesar’s Palace we got totally lost it was so large and ended up next door in The Palazzo. The casinos are completely over the top, amazing and opulent. Words and photos can’t describe adequately, but look at the photos anyway. You have to add to these photos a scale which cannot be captured by still photos, the noise of constantly tinging and clanging machines and advertising over the PA and expense beyond belief. There are shops to die for every where. The rest of our trip is perhaps pointless now that we’ve already been to Paris, Venice, New York and Rome. This is better than the real thing; it's brand new and not covered in pidgeon shit ;-)

The best part of L.V. was Fremont Street. A two block mall between casinos, covered by an arched ceiling of 12 million lights with a 500,000 watt sound system. Every hour for 15 minutes there was a fabulous light and music show. We stayed for two sessions (even though it was late and we were leaving early in the morning to drive to Denver.) Queen’s ‘We will rock you’ and Canned Heat ‘Going up the Country’ and other songs from Woodstock. Warm night - lots of people, and a pleasantly relaxed, happy atmosphere. A cover band played Jimmy Hendrix ‘Star Spangled Banner’ and Janis Joplin on a central stage between light shows. There was a theme of Woodstock for the 40 years anniversary, August 16 1969. What an amazing place.

The coldest winter I ever saw was the summer I spent in San Francisco. Mark Twain.

Early in the morning we rode the Powell & Mason trolley bus to Nob Hill. Visited Grace Cathedral built after the fires of 1906. A gentle old man gave us a very interesting tour. Beautiful frescoes and stain glass windows with not all religious themes, such as the history of SF and man’s endeavours. It has a beautiful silver and gold thread tapestry (and other art works) and magnificent lofted arches. A choral singer was rehearsing. Our tour guide was so kind, that when he urged us to pick up our prayer books I resisted the temptation to declare my philosophy. It is the only Cathedral in the world that has a chapel honouring those who have died of AIDS. A memorial quilt is changed every quarter.

Took the ferry to Sausalito. More expensive area, with individual large houses rather than flats as in SF. Restaurants, art galleries, expensive shops, yacht club big boats. No homeless here. Opera in the park, champagne drinking locals.

Sailed by Alcatraz Island.

Caught a street car up to Castro (the real gay area - rainbow Gay flags flying in street). Next stop Twin Peaks (highest point in SF). Quite a lot of fog came over before we were nearly blown away or became frozen solid. Left very quickly.

Back in Castro had dinner in Bagdad Café (that was a good movie) where the bill included a surcharge to the health fund of their employees….. large serves of salad and fries (too much). Trev didn’t quite get the tipping right and the guy rolled his eyes disapprovingly at him.

Next was a trip on the trolley bus on Powell & Hyde up to the Curviest Street in the world. Great rock/soul busker singing while we waited in the queue. Great voice - probably one of the many homeless in SF. Wouldn’t like to live along the street thick with tourists driving and walking down it (we were amongst them). Beautiful hydrangeas and gardens all along it.

60% of San Francisco’s income is generated from tourism and it was hard in the 4 days we had in SF to get off the beaten track when everything is geared towards tourists.

Our airport shuttle bus driver said he loved living in SF as it was like a big zoo. Lots of different animals, vibrant, always something happening. Buskers on every street corner in the city. 4.000 restaurants of every nationality.

We loved it all too.

San Fransisco

Everything is big. Big cars, big people, big mouths, big sandwiches, big birds.

We arrived to the quaint San Remo Hotel in the afternoon, jet lagged and exhausted and immediately fell asleep. For dinner we walked a short distance down to "Fisherman's Wharf", Pier 39 and sat down at the first eating place we came to, the aptly named "Wipe Out Bar and Grill." We ordered Clam chowders, a West coast specialty. Clam soup served in a hollowed sour dour bread loaf- delicious. Our dinner was incomplete, so I later asked the waitress "what happened to our two salads?" She returned and put two beers on our table. When I looked at her with surprise she said, "you ordered two Stellas?". "Oh you wanted saalaards"

We saw the old hippy and now gay area of Haight Ashbury. Full of hippy shops, alternative book shops, "wholemeal" cafes, peace paraphernalia shops, and recycled clothing shops.

We visited the "Painted Ladies" of Alamo. Actually Victorian houses, beautifully detailed and painted.

And then we walked across the red "Golden Gate Bridge." It is painted red because that is the colour of the native American tribe, so why is it called the Golden Gate? Del thought it was "a bit cool" I thought it was "f........... freezing" Cold winds and fog coming from the Arctic, making the bridge area 7 degrees (that's fahrenheit) cooler than downtown.

Shopping at the local supermarket, I was paralysed by the incredible variety and cheap price of the beers on offer, meanwhile Del was buying sandwiches at the counter and getting chatted up by a big black bloke. He was very amiable and (just?) wanted to hear her interesting accent. "Are you from Sweden or Australia?" I returned and spoiled everything/rescued her.

Tokyo

Everything is small. Small streets, small cars, small people, small doors.

Foggy, hot, humid and no sun. Finding your way around in Tokyo is very difficult because there are very few signs in English. But after an hour journey by train from the airport we thought we were doing well, until we emerged from the underground near our hotel, took about 10 paces and were completely lost.

Luckily a very small, kind Japanese lady (they are all very helpful, polite and small) walked us all the way to our hotel (15 minutes w

alking in hot humid conditions, including making a mobile call on he

r phone to get directions.) Tiny room Trev only just just fitted in!

Back on the train to ride around the city on JR Yamamoto line. Needed help to buy tickets - little English on instructions but lots of staff standing around ready to help or directing trains & people. All very orderly, tidy and clean. Many staff cleaning and sweeping all day. Almost impossible to find rubbish bins; they hide them in corners. But there is no litter anywhere (or graffiti).

Many commuters fall asleep as soon as they sit down on the trains. Lots of pretty young girls dressed like dolls (designer clothes and bags & bling). Unselfconsciously grooming themselves on the trains applying make up looking at themselves in a mirror for ages. Occasionally we saw a lady dressed in a Komono

Enjoyed exquisite sushi meal at a tiny restaurant in Roppongi at night. Got up at 5:45 next morning to visit the Fish Markets. Missed wholesaler’s auction but still saw tuna everywhere. Huge crowded busy place with mad delivery mini trucks flying around between stalls not stopping for anyone, least of all tourists. Enormous headless and tailless tuna lying around and being sawn or chopped up.